Exterior painting in Orange County is a once-in-a-while project, but most homeowners would prefer to paint only once in a great while. If that’s your mindset, there’s good news: It’s easy to extend the life of an exterior paint job by several years or more. Here’s how:
1. Do a good job on surface prep. Before starting to paint, make sure the entire surface is clean and sound, free of dirt, mildew, and loose or peeling paint. Spot-prime areas that have no paint at all, either because they are new surfaces, or because the old paint has completely worn off.
2. Work in the right weather conditions. Apply exterior coatings on mild days — ideally, when temps are between 60 and 85 degrees F. — with little wind. That will enable primer or paint to form the most protective dry “film”.
3. Start with a coat of primer. Priming creates a tackier surface to which paint can tightly adhere, reducing chances that it will peel or blister. As a bonus, the paint will have more uniform color and sheen. In the alternative, apply two or more coats of one of the new “primer and paint” products.
4. Use top quality paint, 100% acrylic latex paint. Much more durable than ordinary housepaint, it has more flexibility, better adhesion (for resistance to peeling and flaking), and superior color retention. These paints can last 10 years or more, compared to a life expectancy of only three or four years for lower quality paint.
5. Choose exterior colors carefully. Earthtones tend to have good color retention; other colors, such as bright blue and bright red, tend to fade more quickly. Ask the counterperson how your color selections will fare over time, and choose your hues accordingly.
6. Apply thicker coats. The thicker the paint film, the more protection you’ll get. So, apply your paint liberally . . . and never water it down. Paints are carefully formulated to be used as-is for the longest-lasting protection.
7. Apply an extra coat of paint. That extra coat will thicken the protective coating on your home even more, and may very well add an extra couple of years of service.
By following these suggestions, you’ll stretch out the life of your paint job to the max . . . and minimize the amount of exterior painting you’ll have to do for years to come!
Check out these guys. They did an excellent job on my house.
Ouch, I got a door ding on my new car!!!! At some point, inevitably, your car gets dinged or dented. While it might not seem worthy of an insurance call or a visit to the body shop, it bothers you every time you see it.
If the damage is smaller than a football, you may be able to bypass the body shop and still get the dents fixed. There are a number of services that offer paintless dent repair in Huntington Beach, or PDR which involves using specialized metal rods and tools to push out small dents from the inside. Unlike with a typical body-shop repair, there is no sanding, body filling or repainting needed. It works best on late-model vehicles, which have stronger bodies and more resilient paint.
Most services charge by the dent, which is still cheaper than full-body work. Since it doesn’t involve heavy machinery or car repainting, technicians will do repairs at customers’ homes. We put paintless dent repair to the test with four cars with dings, using some nationwide franchises as well as independent operations.
In the Huntington Beach area, we called a mobile dent repair service call paintlessdentpro.com for a free estimate to fix a baseball-size dent and a couple of door dings of a 2013 Ford. The estimator said the price would depend on the location of the dents; it would be cheaper if they were on the same panel. Of the three dents we had, two were on the same panel.
We were a little astounded when a truck with an different name pulled up for our house. Turns out the organization subcontracts out its littler employments to a little shop in Huntington Beach Dent Repair. With the auto in the garage, they opened up the boards from underneath and embedded golf-club-size poles behind them, utilizing them to tenderly back rub and push out every region. Inside a couple of minutes, the imprints began to vanish. He expelled two or three little dings at the edge of the entryway board at no charge. Approximately a hour later, the marks were gone and the boards smooth to the touch
He attempted to settle it once more, hitting a little elastic tip with a hammer to reshape the metal around the scratch. The imprint was truly gone this time.
In Orange County, a 1999 Jeep had a golf-ball-size gouge in the hood. When we called another Paintless dent removal company said he once in a while homes repairs nowadays. The greater part of his business originates from body shops and auto merchants. He was especially bustling when we called on account of harm done to autos by a noteworthy hailstorm that as of late hit the territory.
(While none of the autos we utilized had hail damage, hail storms ended up being an issue in various territories in the nation, expanding wait times for appointments and bringing on a few administrations we called to reject at-home repair employments by and large in view of the expansion in business. A few administrations charge on a case-by-case premise, as opposed to per scratch; others won’t go up against the issue if the marks are too substantial or too profound.)
Because of the accumulation of tempest related work, we chose to take the auto to him for repairs. Following 20 minutes of a tap here and a push there, the mark was no more. Mr. Adams saw a couple of small dings on the hood and expelled them at no charge. He likewise waxed and buffed the whole hood. We were charmed with the administration and results.
In Garden Grove, there was a door dent on a 1999 Subaru. I called another paintless dent repair in Huntington Beach and spoke to the owner, Brian. He said the company would do an onsite estimate and would charge us $20 for it if we decided not to do the repair.
We called on a Monday and he came out to do the repair on Thursday. We had a small dent on one of the passenger doors, which turned out to be in a difficult place to repair because the dent was on top of a beam within the door. They explained that with a normal door dent, he would insert a tool through the window, push it down, and rotate it inside the door to push it out. With our dent, he said if he went down through the window, the amount of leverage required to fix the dent could break the window.
Instead, he opened the door and inserted a tool through a small hole near the door latch, leveraging it to push out the dent. After fixing the dent, he covered up the hole with a rubber plug. He cautioned that sometimes the work could slightly crack the paint. We were satisfied with the results. If we look carefully, we can still tell there’s a bit of a flaw in the paint where the dent was. Though no one would know it was there but us.